The art of surfing is far more complex and considered than one might imagine. It’s much like Entrepreneurship. The perfect wave is different for different surfers. But some principals never change.
As a surfer you’re constantly assessing the situation. Before, during and after the session. But before you enter the ocean some decisions must be made.
Crowds – Smart surfers avoid crowded conditions. Even if the waves are perfect. You’re better off a little further down the beach where the waves are smaller but, at least you’ll catch a few.
Market Size – When you’re learning to surf, you don’t paddle out into the biggest waves you can find. You learn in the small stuff where conditions are more gentle and forgiving.
Investment – When learning there’s no point spending large sums of money on the latest equipment. You go to a garage sale. You pull together some stuff to do it – cheap. You might not enjoy it.
Market Entry – Before you paddle out you assess the best way to reach the line up of waves. It’s best to avoid the dumpers. They’re hard to push through. You’re much better off on the edge of the waves and letting the rip pull you out. Use the momentum of the ocean. Don’t paddle against it.
Positioning – You also need to know where to sit in the line up. Where to position yourself amongst the other surfers. Not too close, or you’ll both be fighting over the same waves. This is only relevant if there are other surfers in the water. Hmmm, I’ve got an idea…
Niche Market – Number one rule of surfing. If you find a secret spot with plenty of waves and no crowds, don’t tell anyone.
Experience – Know your limitations. It’s fine to get into the big stuff. But you have to be aware of the risk of drowning.
Incumbents – Locals can be very protective of their waves. It’s often better to surf in locations you know well and have the respect of others.
Preparation – It’s good to know how to swim before you even attempt surfing.
The Ride– Surfing is about radical moves, risk taking. The glory and ultimate rush doesn’t come from riding a wave in a straight line to the shore. How boring.
Exit Strategy – When you’re surfing on a reef or rocky point, you need to know where to exit. Sometimes you can’t exit a surf spot the way you entered. The tide might be low and the reef will cut you up.
Changing Winds – A good surfer can read the changing conditions, and know when to catch a wave in and be satisfied with what was achieved.
Be a surfer.